Since ordinary people couldn’t afford such a trothy game, they created a clever alternative with fish, shaped to resemble the stuffed birds. Using swordfish is a refined variation on the traditional sardine version, drawing on a catch especially abundant in the Strait of Messina.
The filling captures the sweet-and-sour essence of Sicilian cooking: raisins, citrus zest, pine nuts, bay, and orange juice come together in a balance that recalls the sun, the sea, and the zest of Mediterranean life. The rolls can be baked or grilled, and they are often threaded onto skewers with bay leaves, onions, or orange wedges to mimic the birds they were named after.
As with so many Italian classics, every family guards its own version—some add sun-dried tomatoes, others figs, or a generous crumb coating. What unites them all is a story of the sea, of tradition, and the boundless creativity of the island’s people.
Here is chef
Giuseppe Schimmenti’s refined version, step by step:
Ingredients for 4 people: - 170 g soft sandwich bread (pancarrè)
- 20 g passolina raisins
- 20 g pine nuts
- Fresh parsley, to taste
- Juice of a fresh orange, to taste
- 72 g onion, finely chopped
- Breadcrumbs
- 1 anchovy fillets in oil
- Grated lemon and orange zest, to taste
- A small bunch of bay leaves
- Salt and pepper