Into the Soul of Italy

On a muggy July day, Racalmuto appears bathed in a warm, golden light, as though a sepia filter had been laid gently over the village. In the narrow streets, preparations are underway for the celebration of Saint Maria del Monte: fairy lights are strung overhead, neighbours exchange greetings, and a light blue Piaggio Ape rattles past, laden with oranges.

Time seems to move differently here. If one ignored the smartwatch on the wrist, it would be easy to believe we had stepped into another decade — into an authentic Italy of old films, slow rhythms and quiet smiles.
We, the guests of ADLER Spa Resort SICILIA, experience this atmosphere during a guided excursion entitled: “A journey through the culture and flavours of 1940s Sicily”.


Following Leonardo Sciascia’s footsteps

Our tour leads us through Racalmuto, hometown of the renowned writer and thinker Leonardo Sciascia (1921–1989). We gather at a striking monument dedicated to him: a stack of marble books engraved with the titles of his most important works, including Il giorno della civetta, the groundbreaking novel that brought him international recognition as “the conscience of Italy”.

Accompanied by our passionate local guide Salvatore — known affectionately as Totò — we visit the Leonardo Sciascia Foundation, housed in a former power station. A symbolic setting: Sciascia is remembered as the man who brought light and awareness to this quiet town.
Inside, letters and documents reveal his dialogue with great intellectuals such as Pasolini, Primo Levi and Italo Calvino, reflecting on politics, power and life in post-war Italy.


Racalmuto between history and culture

From a panoramic viewpoint, we look out over the rooftops towards the salt mines that once shaped the region’s economy — and often appeared in Sciascia’s writing.

Descending into the old town, we stroll past timeworn palazzi and meet Calogero “Lillo” Sardo, former mayor and personal friend of the author. His home feels like a small museum of memories, kept alive by the deep respect Racalmuto still holds for Sciascia.

Another unforgettable stop is the Regina Margherita Theatre, a jewel built in 1880. Here, young Sciascia discovered his love for cinema, literature and culture.

We conclude our literary journey at his childhood home, preserved almost exactly as it was: books, furniture and silence safeguarding a remarkable legacy.


The taste of Sicilian hospitality

After nourishing the mind, we head into the countryside, where Lillo and his wife Franca welcome us like family. In their converted farmhouse, a feast awaits: homemade wine, capers from the garden, Pane cunzatu, Pitaggio and seasonal vegetables — all prepared with simplicity, love and deep connection to the land.

This experience reflects the very essence of ADLER: authenticity, regional tradition, respect for nature and heartfelt hospitality.
With full hearts and satisfied palates, we return to the resort — carrying with us the feeling of having touched the true soul of Sicily.

As Goethe once wrote: “To have seen Italy without having seen Sicily is not to have seen Italy at all, for Sicily is the clue to everything.”